Where to ski in Val di Sole: three ski areas, one base

After a long journey, there is no need to start with a big mission. On the first day, I would choose Folgarida-Marilleva and take it easy: a few easier runs, no rush, and plenty of time to look around. The Brenzi and Busa del Vigo runs are a good way to start the week, especially when you want to enjoy the views of the Dolomites rather than chase kilometres. Folgarida-Marilleva is part of the larger ski area connected by lifts with Madonna di Campiglio and Pinzolo, with more than 150 km of slopes.

The point of this first day is not to ski as much as possible. It is about seeing how your legs feel, getting used to the snow and finding your rhythm.

Then there is El Mas, with the atmosphere of an old mountain hut. It is the kind of place where you want to sit down, have a drink and let time slow down. Just remember one thing: do not stay too long. You still have several lifts to take to get back to MONROC. Enjoy El Mas, but keep an eye on the time.

MONROC TIP: Make the first day an easy one. Brenzi or Busa del Vigo, Dolomite views, a stop at El Mas. Just remember that the lifts back to MONROC will not wait.

The next day, I would change gear and head towards Madonna di Campiglio. From Folgarida-Marilleva, you can enter the larger ski area directly on skis and move between Folgarida-Marilleva, Madonna di Campiglio and Pinzolo. It is a longer and more varied day: different levels of slopes, wide runs, different sides of the mountain and plenty of places to stop for a break. But if you want to experience it like someone who knows the mountain, there is a small ritual worth trying.

Start the morning at 5 Laghi. The slope faces east, so the first hours of the day bring plenty of sun, with the Dolomites in front of you. Then stop at Baita Natalia for a cappuccino and brioche before heading back out. Once you are properly warmed up and your skiing is ready for it, you can increase the pace and take “Spinale davanti”.

This is the day for when you still have plenty of energy and want options. Different levels, long and wide runs, different sides of the mountain and the freedom to build your route around how your legs feel. Madonna di Campiglio is about variety. But if you know where to go, you can also make the day feel very personal.

MONROC TIP: 5 Laghi in the morning, cappuccino and brioche at Baita Natalia, then Spinale davanti when your legs are warm. Sun first, skiing second.

After a big day on the slopes, on day three I would choose Pejo3000. It is a smaller ski area, with 20 km of slopes and lifts reaching 3,000 metres, inside Stelvio National Park.

What might look like a limitation at first can actually become its strength after a few days of skiing. If your energy is lower and you want a more relaxed day, Pejo lets you change pace: less need to move constantly from one side of the mountain to another, more time to enjoy the landscape and breathe.

But I would not start the morning slowly. At Pejo3000, there is one descent you should not miss: Val della Mite, taking you from 3,000 metres down towards the valley over almost 8 km. Go early, when the snow conditions are right. Have a quick coffee at Mythe Bar, put your skis on and go. After that, slow down. At Doss dei Gembri, stop for a panino and a beer before continuing. The name Gembro also has a familiar meaning for MONROC: it refers to the cirmolo, the Swiss stone pine, a wood and a scent that are part of the hotel’s identity.

Pejo is the choice for when you still want to ski, but you do not want to hurry. First the big descent. Then time to breathe.

MONROC TIP: Get to Pejo3000 early. Coffee at Mythe Bar, Val della Mite down to the valley, then panino and beer at Doss dei Gembri. After that, take the rest of the day slowly.

One of the advantages of having a proper base is that you do not have to turn every day into an expedition.

On day four, I would go back to Folgarida-Marilleva. Not because it is the obvious choice, but because after changing scenery and pace, it can be good to return to a mountain you already know and simply see where the day takes you.

You can decide in the morning. Ski a little longer, try a slope you missed earlier in the week, stop at a mountain hut or simply spend a few hours skiing without trying to “discover” another ski area. And there is a practical advantage too: the Daolasa gondola is right in front of MONROC, giving you direct access to the ski area. Daolasa is also an important point in the valley’s winter transport network.

Not every good day needs a new destination. Sometimes it is enough to know that the snow is right there when you want it.

MONROC TIP: Keep at least one day without a big plan. If you want to ski, go back to your home ski area. If you want to slow down, you do not need to find somewhere new.

Then I would choose Passo Tonale. Everything feels different here: the landscape, the light, the sense of space.

The Pontedilegno-Tonale ski area stretches between Trentino and Lombardy and reaches the 3,000-metre-high Presena Glacier. It offers around 100 km of slopes. At higher altitude, the landscape becomes more open. The trees disappear and the air feels sharper. If your legs are still strong, there is one descent that is difficult to skip: from Presena Glacier, down through Presena and Paradiso, from 3,000 to 1,700 metres. It is a long and demanding black run, so I would choose it in the morning, when the snow is in good condition and you still have plenty of energy.

And if you still want more, you can turn the day into a real ski safari to Temù: a long exploration across the Pontedilegno-Tonale ski area, for experienced skiers. At that point, the lunch break has a very specific taste: polenta and mushrooms, or gnöch de la cua, at Rifugio Roccolo Ventura.

A day that starts at 3,000 metres and ends with mountain food.

MONROC TIP: Presena and Paradiso in the morning, while the snow is good. Then head towards Temù for a ski safari. When it is time to stop: polenta and mushrooms or gnöch de la cua at Roccolo Ventura.

Having three ski areas available does not mean that you automatically need the biggest ski pass. In fact, one of the advantages of using MONROC as your base is that you can choose according to the week you actually want to have.

If you plan to spend most of your time in Folgarida-Marilleva, the local ski-area pass is the simple option. If you want to use the lifts connecting Folgarida-Marilleva with Madonna di Campiglio and Pinzolo, you can choose the pass covering the larger Campiglio Dolomiti di Brenta ski area. There are also formulas combining Madonna di Campiglio with Pejo3000, as well as passes for the individual ski areas.

Then there is Superskirama, which makes more sense if your holiday is really about exploring several ski areas. At the beginning of the 2026/27 season, for example, Superskirama is included in specific offers giving access to Madonna di Campiglio, Pejo3000 and Pontedilegno-Tonale, together with other major ski areas in Trentino.

The simple rule is: if you mainly want to ski Campiglio and Folgarida-Marilleva, compare the local ski-area passes; if you want real exploration days in Pejo and Tonale, compare the wider Superskirama options.

Always check the conditions, validity and dates for your specific holiday before buying, as ski-pass offers change during the season.

MONROC TIP — SKI PASS: Do not automatically buy the biggest pass. First look at the week you actually want to ski. If most of your days are in Campiglio, a ski-area pass may be enough. If you want proper exploration days in Pejo and Tonale, compare the wider options.

The three ski areas are not connected to each other by ski lifts. This is important when planning your week. The ski connection works within the larger Campiglio area, between Folgarida-Marilleva, Madonna di Campiglio and Pinzolo. To reach Pejo or Tonale, you need to travel. The good news is that Val di Sole has a winter Ski Bus network connecting the valley villages with the ski areas, with stops near the lifts.

For MONROC guests, Daolasa is particularly useful: the gondola to the ski area is right in front of the hotel and Daolasa is also an important point in the valley’s transport network. Seasonal Ski Bus services connect the area with different parts of Val di Sole, including routes towards Pejo and Passo Tonale.

For the 2026/27 season, check the updated timetable before planning your day, especially for the return journey. Do not only look at the first bus in the morning. Check the last useful connection back as well.

This matters even more if you plan a long day in Tonale or want to ski as far as Temù. Take travel time, lifts, your last run and the return connection into account. A long day in the mountains is great. Running for the last bus is not.

MONROC TIP — MOBILITY: Before going to Pejo or Tonale, check both the outbound and return connections. Save the timetable on your phone and leave some extra time. For Folgarida-Marilleva and Campiglio, the advantage is even simpler: you can build the day on skis, without taking the car.